Return of the perm! How the Eighties style has been given a modern new look in lockdown

With lockdown forcing Britons to go months without a haircut, many of us will be keen for a complete mane overhaul when salons finally reopen in April.

One style that’s seen an unexpected resurgence since the pandemic hit is the iconic Eighties perm.

However, the once rather frizzy do characterised by tight curls and worn by the likes of Kylie Minogue and Coronation Street’s Deirdre Barlow has been given a thoroughly modern makeover.

The ‘pandemic perms’ we’ve seen on the likes of Cara Delevingne, Olivia Munn and Jennifer Lopez are much softer, with voluminous waves and a smoother, glossier texture.

Cara debuted her new look, which has also seen her go from blonde to a light brunette, last month. Her stylist Mara Roszak described it as a ‘long soft shag’ which makes the most of the natural texture in her hair.

‘I was inspired by this late 70s early 80s skater babe, that feels so Cara. It’s got a real rocker/skater vibe while maintaining a natural softness,’ she told Vogue.

Celebrity hair stylist Tom Smith, who has tended to the locks of Louise Redknapp and Geri Horner, told FEMAIL he’s received a number of calls from clients who have seen stars like Cara and J-Lo showing off their new waves and are keen to copy the look.

‘I have seen a rise in the popularity of curls and waves,’ he said. ‘Textured hair in general is definitely popular at the moment, so naturally the conversation around perming starts again.

‘Many of the celebrities you see are either showing off their natural curls without any styling at all or have had help with a heat styling tool. Cara Delevingne, for instance, has used her natural texture, enhancing it with a shag cut.’

Tom said the fact many of us have spent more time at home in the past year means we’ve styled our hair less, leading to people noticing and embracing their natural texture and waves.

But for those with flat, heavy straight hair with no natural waves – like Olivia Munn, who documented getting her new perm on Instagram in August – a permanent chemical treatment which changes its structure can be an attractive idea.

‘Perms generally give an S-shaped curl, which is quite different to a blow dried or tonged curl, but on the right hair texture – thicker, coarser hair – you can achieve a really nice, beachy effect,’ Tom explained.

‘I personally have had my hair permed in the past multiple times by my team at Billi Currie Hair salon and loved the effect. 

‘My hair works really well because it is strong and thick. On finer hair textures, perms can easily look crispy and unnatural.’

These days there are dozens of different types of perms available to suit individual hair types and styles.

As well as the traditional method for a standard perm which delivers defined, tight curls using narrow plastic rods, others work with larger rods and employ different sectioning techniques to generate a looser, more natural wave.

There’s also a ‘digital perm’ which limits and controls the heat by keeping the rollers at a constant temperature. This usually results in a beachy textured effect. 

‘The way that the perm chemistry works means that there has to be a certain level of tension on the hair (curled into a small enough rod) in order for the hair to be stretched enough to change its pattern,’ Tom explained. 

‘If the hair is not stretched enough then the curl will not take. Some people experiment with conical shaped rods and this can give a different effect. 

‘My preference is to use the classic rods and vary the sectioning patter, curl direction and angle to create a bespoke look.’ 

While perm is short for permanent, the treatment usually requires a top-up after around six months to deal with new growth. But once you go for it, there’s no going back – you’ll either need to wait for it to grow out of your hair, or cut it. 

Tom would definitely not recommend trying out a DIY perm at home, and urged anyone considering taking the plunge to wait until salons reopen – and use this time to make sure they’re making the right decision.

‘A perm uses a chemical ingredient that breaks down the molecular structure of the hair, followed by a second step that sticks it back together again,’ he explained.

‘There is a matter of minutes difference between a perm and what is known as “gummy breaking hair” (damaged or very stretchy hair) – so this is absolutely best left to the professionals.

‘If you want to experiment and see if a perm is the right fight for you, there are a number of hair styling tools you can buy. 

‘I would absolutely suggest going down this route first before committing to a perm’. 

Follow Tom on Instagram.