Traditional cod and chips used in Britain’s favourite takeaway could be replaced with hake as experts claim it is more sustainable.
Global warming is affecting the number of cod that can be caught, so fishermen and chip shops alike are hoping fish-lovers will make the transition towards the less-traditional battered delicacy.
Hake is starting to boom in popularity, after going out of favour in the 1990s due to overfishing.
In 2015, Cornish hake became MSC-certified, and now 2,000 tonnes of hake are trawled every year.
The UK fishing industry loves it as there is no risk of overfishing, so should be caught sustainably for years to come.
And experts say this is why it should become the go-to fish instead of cod.
Traditional cod and chips used in Britain’s favourite takeaway could be replaced with hake as experts claim it is more sustainable
Cornish fishmonger Rob Wing explained: ‘Over recent years global warming has encouraged cod to move north in search of cooler climes.
‘This has put pressure when catching cod and forced a reduction in the catching quota.
‘Cod is now not considered as sustainable as it once was.
‘By contrast, the catching of hake in waters around Cornwall has grown in volume year on year for nearly two decades.
‘In addition, a stock management system was introduced 20 years ago to ensure that this delicious fish can be enjoyed for many more years to come.
‘Today, in Cornwall, there are several fishing boats catching superb, quality hake in the local area.
‘Unlike cod, there is currently an abundance of hake in the south west with strong fishing quotas indicating the on-going sustainability of this fish species.’
Ryan Davey and his family have fished off the Cornwall coast for generations.
He is part of a seven-person crew on the boat Stelissa, based out of Newlyn, which primarily captures hake.
He said: ‘I used to see the small wooden boats go out.
‘Seeing my uncle on a hake boat many years ago, pushed me really to carry on myself and I’ve worked my way up from the deck to the wheelhouse.
‘There are generations of fishermen in our families and it’s really important for future generations that the hake is fished sustainably.’
A Cornish fisherman catches hake, a fish far more sustainable these days than cod, according to experts
The whole Pascoe family from grandfather Denys to grandson Tom are fishermen.
Tom’s father Andrew explained that originally, almost all of the hake landed in Newlyn was sent to Spain.
But as the market there declined, the fishers stopped catching hake and moved to other species.
‘But the fish were there, so we decided to take the opportunity and grow the UK market,’ says Andrew.
Andrew bought his own boat eight years ago, and now focuses on hake.
‘Sustainability has been a huge part of us developing our fishery,’ he added.
Craig Maw is one of an increasing number of fish and chip shop owners who now serve sustainable hake.
The white fish is very popular at his award-winning Kingfisher Fish & Chips in Plympton, Devon.
Craig said: ‘In previous summers, we have offered MSC-certified Cornish hake as a special which is really popular.
‘Customers love that it’s not only sustainable but caught so locally.
‘It’s similar to cod but slightly milder and sweeter and personally, I think it makes some of the best fish and chips there is.’
Chefs say hake is very versatile and can be enjoyed battered, steamed or fried.
Chefs say hake is a very versatile fish and can be enjoyed battered, steamed or fried
Award-winning seafood restaurateur and MSC ambassador Mitch Tonks, who champions Cornish hake in his Rockfish restaurant chain across the South West, said the fish is ‘meaty, silky, juicy, versatile and easy to cook’.
‘The Spanish love it and in the UK we seem to have followed that,’ he said.
‘I like paprika and garlic with fish and think this is the perfect combination.’
Rob Wing added: ‘Hake can be cooked in many ways, not just battered and served with chips.
‘The best way to cook this mouth-watering fish is skin down in hot oil, just be careful not to overcook it.
‘For many years the Spanish have enjoyed this flavoursome fish with Salsa Verde, olive oil and a glass of cold white wine – Hake lends itself well to Mediterranean-style dishes.’
Marine Stewardship Council – which certifies whether fish is sustainable – has launched a campaign to encourage Brits to take up hake.
It has also released a recipe guide entitled the Blue Cookbook designed to inspire foodies to cook hake and other seafood.
The Welsh have enjoyed hake on a Friday night for many years, and it is hoped the rest of the country will now catch up.