Olly Smith reviews some alternatives to booze

I wanted to love these no-alcohol tipples, but for me, it’s either low-booze beers or making my OWN cordials and sodas

Sound the booze alarm! I fear the surge in no- and low-alcohol tipples may prove the garlic to my thirsty vampire. I want to love them – and for this column I’ve tasted a bunch – but I’ve concluded: why drink a 0.5% cider rather than just a sparkling apple juice? And as for ‘non- alcoholic’ spirits? How about we just make our own infusions and cordials with herbs such as rosemary, save ourselves £40 on the cost of a bottle and also call ourselves ‘apothecaries’? 

I’m seeing too many drinks harking back to Victorians in sepia photographs who supposedly created the recipe. All I care about is whether it tastes good. Low-booze beers are still the best for me, though my wine of the week is a zinger even if it still packs 9% alcohol (spritzer anyone?). For now, I’ll be sticking to quality cordials and superb sodas.