A review of La Sivolière hotel in Courchevel 1850, the resort Kate and Wills love to ski in

As I check into the five-star La Sivolière hotel in Courchevel 1850, I momentarily think that the authorities are raiding the place.

There’s a young man looking like a gendarme flicking through some paperwork behind the reception desk.

Then I realise his dark-blue top and shield-style arm badge is actually the hotel staff uniform, with the badge depicting the property.

It’s a mildly startling look only because the hotel’s aesthetic in every other way is so unregimented.

British interior designer Sara Copeland recently refurbished the inside and she has filled the property – under the guidance of the inimitable general manager, Florence Carcassonne – with an enticing blend of trendy, funky, cosy and refined elements.

From the outside La Sivolière resembles an oversized ginger-bread cottage and – like any self-respecting five-star hotel in this most chic and glamorous of French ski resorts loved by celebs, royalty and the mega-rich – sits right next to a ski slope.

In this instance, a red run. But beginners, don’t be put off, because to reach the nearest lift (and access to greens and blues) you only have to scoot from the property down the tame end of the slope.

The most appealing part of the hotel, I would suggest, is the bar and restaurant area, the former sporting a hygge-tastic chunky fireplace and intimate seating area and the latter – ‘Le 1850 Be Organic’ – some seriously gorgeous tables and chairs, along with eye-catching lights made from small branches of wood.

It’s an elegant and fitting arena for the fine fodder produced by visiting chef Fanny Rey, whose restaurant, Auberge de St-Remy, has a coveted Michelin star and who the legendary guide named female chef of the year in 2017.

She’s here until the end of April with her brilliant pastry chef (and husband) Jonathan Wahid while their Provençal restaurant is renovated.

Their food is an absolute revelation, though being Courchevel 1850 the menus aren’t cheap.

The seven and 10-course tasting menus come in at 190 and 250 euros (the ‘regular’ evening meals are 95 euros for three courses) with beverages on top, but by ruddy Jove are you in for a treat if you fancy splashing out.

One-star food? Edging towards two-star, I’d say. The dishes are playful (I love the mini pieces of bread shaped like crabs), clever (the ‘cheese sorbet’ for one) and beautifully, perfectly, cooked.

A few times I take a mouthful, put down my fork, sigh, and just savour the moment. 

And the service is exceptional, with our devoted solitary waiter (who’s actually from Fanny’s team) showing impressive knowledge of both the food and the paired wines.

Being offered a choice of knives with hand-carved handles for the pigeon course is another highlight.

Handily for dining parents, there’s a cute little children’s playroom stuffed with games next to the restaurant. What’s more, the walls are glass, so staff can keep an eye on proceedings as they pass.

Our two-year-old daughter is entranced. She also loves the cute mini-reception where she’s checked in and given a little passport that entitles her to free chocolate crepes.

Our spacious bedroom impresses, too.

There’s an abundance of warm natural woods – used for the fitted wardrobe, floor and back wall – a huge bed and two dapper purple chairs.

The spotless modern ensuite has a decent rain shower and two sinks and there is a handy separate, loo.

All in all, luxurious (and it has some lovely touches for our little one, including little slippers and toddler-friendly toiletries) but not quite up there with the very best hotels in 1850.

I’m not entirely convinced by the bedside table or chest of drawers, for instance – flatpack-style furniture given a bespoke makeover by way of gold-metal framing.

The shower floor, meanwhile, is plastic and the walls covered in faux marble vinyl.

All easy on the eye, but other elite lodges here will offer actual marble or beautiful natural stone to accompany your ablutions.

And the view is almost great – we have a bit of woodland and can see the chairlift, but much of it is taken up by a concrete reservoir (if you book, ask for a room facing the valley, these have spectacular views).

Also, there is no air conditioning. Not something that irks us as fresh mountain air wafting in is rather pleasant, but some might expect it in a top-dollar lodge.

Every other aspect of our three-night stay reverts to being quibble-free.

The friendly and expert staff in the swanky boot room fix us up with excellent ski (for her) and snowboard (for me) gear, the pool proves to be a winner and we make full use of the free and extremely efficient resort shuttle service, which whisks us back and forth from the slopes and local hit eateries such as Le Tremplin and La Pomme de Pin.

There is also a lovely moment when the seated staff behind the various desks in the reception area stand up one by one and say ‘bonsoir’ and sit down again as we pass through.

I think those shields on the uniform are something of a badge of honour, because the staff all seem dedicated to the cause – of maximum guest satisfaction.

La Sivoliere? A most arresting hotel.